CULTURAL APPROPRIATION WITH REFERENCE TO TEXTILES HANDWOVEN IN NAGALAND, INDIA.
Nisaphi Lyndem, Vandana Bhandari
PhD scholar, National Institute of Fashion Technology, NIFT New Delhi, Hauz khas, 10016, India
With their geometric and frequently minimalistic designs, the captivating indigenous textiles of the Naga community, provides a unique exemption in Indiaâ€˜s textiles, and has a growing demand worldwide. (Wettstein, 2014).Each design within a textile carries importance and the finished piece can be studied like a story (Adangla, 2017).With a history as interesting and captivating as its geography, Nagaland is however yet to be further explored . The state, with its assorted tribal culture, is a region of festivals and exceptionally abundant textile traditions. Within the handloom history of India, the warrior body cloths or shawls of Nagaland have a special place and are required to be documented accurately (Prakash, 2014). This study aims to understand the textiles of Nagaland and analyse the views of the original users on contemporisation and cultural re-appropriation of textiles. Cultural appropriation of traditional textiles is a major offence, according to the Nagas. Cases of cultural appropriation have happened in the past due to lack of awareness. Therefore, the study is additionally an attempt at identifying appropriate methods for contemporisation of Naga textiles while still retaining the cultural essence of the handloom pieces. The methods used for this study are in-depth interviews with local experts, Photo elicitation discussion with the weavers, Mind-mapping and feedback surveys with the original users (people belonging to the Naga tribe). Previously, existing information on Naga textiles has revealed knowledge regarding the designs, the cultural status of the wearer of some of these textiles and the usage of these textiles in the past as well as present. However, as the social status of the wearer has changed over the years, this has resulted in socio-cultural re-appropriation of these Naga textiles.The information regarding the customs and appropriate methods to avoid cultural appropriation are identified, compiled and discussed. It involves detailed observation, description of the original users and understanding cultural appropriation from their perspective. The research is directly concerned with the significance that the textiles play in the lives of the Nagas.
Keywords: Contemporisation, Cultural appropriation, Handloom, Nagaland, Textiles.
Journal Name :
EPRA International Journal of Multidisciplinary Research (IJMR)
Published on : 2022-11-07